Fragrance Reviews

Olfactive Studio Panorama: A Different Shade of Green

05/05/15 16:38:09 

by: Miguel Matos

I think that maybe green notes are making a comeback, especially galbanum. In a very shy way, some brands are coming back to it not only as a balancing note, but also pushing it to center stage. I saw it in Esxence with Francine by Francesca Dell'Oro but also in the new release by Olfactive Studio, Panorama. Celine Verleure told me about this new edition in the interview I made during the last Fragranze expo, but the scent was not ready at the time. Now it is already in the market and I had the chance to finally wear Panorama on my skin, with great pleasure.

Panorama is the latest fragrance from Olfactive Studio and it is amazing in my opinion. A creation by IFF perfumer Clement Gavarry that establishes a connection with a picture, as usual in this brand, this time by French photographer Miguel Sandinha. The image that illustrates Panorama was chosen by Celine as soon as she started working on the fragrance (image below). It depicts the Sheats House, a glass and concrete house in West Hollywood designed by architect John Lautner—a disciple of Frank Lloyd Wright—overlooking the City of Angels. It sits over a lush landscape of green profusion. Far ahead you can discern the tall buildings of the city but around the house all you see is nature, quiet and luxuriating. A “bed of greenery,” as the press release tell us.

“Green and wild, Panorama is the perfume of an urban jungle, an interplay of original combinations, like this surprising accord of hot and spicy wasabi. When notes of myrrh spring up among other warm and bewitching resin-based notes, an incredible contrast emerges with elegance. A full-bodied, generous, and unexpexted composition, Panorama opens up the olfactory imagination.”—Olfactive Studio

What I Think of Panorama

This year I am finally starting to enjoy my collection of green scents. It all started withEnchanted Forest and Bandit last year and now it has evolved into Niki de Saint Phalle, Silences by Jacomo, Y by Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy III. So I was very inclined to try a contemporary innovation in the green family with this introduction of wasabi and galbanum in Panorama. The first sniff I took from it was on paper and I felt it as a very fresh and explosive opening that gradually softened up and turned resinous and spicy. Fresh cut grass, galbanum and citrus notes are very prominent. I tred it on the skin and it is very uplifting, energetic and tonic. It really gives the impression of energy and optimism. It's green and transparent. Not in an aquatic way and not in a bitter tone. It sure smells like galbanum, but lightened up by the lemon. Regarding the wasabi accord, I can't really detect it clearly. But maybe that different shade of green comes from it. I see this as a warm weather fragrance as it is very clear and refreshing. Transparency is assured by this balanced composition. The green never becomes acrid, bitter or sour, it is very comfortable and always bringing a very special energy. This green zest of energy starts strong but evolves into something gradually smoother and warmer. The presence of galbanum is not overwhelming and the wasabi theme doesn't make it too spicy. Violet leaf takes the main role in the heart and that's when I wish this scent was a bit stronger. The first half hour is glorious and really exhilarating, but then it gets softer and softer. I feel like reapplying it after one hour, not really because I can't smell it, but just to have that burst again. As the fragrance evolves, it turns resinous and warm, but the projection also decreases, so what started as green fireworks ends like a warm and gentle resinous musk skinscent where I can feel the myrrh entertwined with subtle labdanum and patchouli. The vanilla and tonka bean that are mentioned in the list serve only for structure effect, as this is not a sweet perfume, not even in the end. I would say that this bottle will be in heavy rotation this summer.

Panorama Top notes: wasabi accord, fig leaf, bamboo leaf, bergamot, lemon Middle hotes: galbanum, cardamom, violet leaf, fresh cut grass Base notes: myrrh absolute, fir balsam, patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla, musks, labdanum

While trying Panorama, I had a quick chat with Celine Verleure about the next steps for Olfactive Studio:

Miguel: Last time we spoke, in Pitti Fragranze, you told me you were thinking of changing your bottles. How is this project going? Are you still working on it?

Celine: Some things have changed since September. I decided to postpone the new bottle design project. The new bottle is only coming out in 2016, because it is technically complicated and very expensive to do. So I'm planning it for September 2016. I'm also creating a crowdfunding platform in Indiegogo at the beginning of the year, so everyone can participate in the creation of the bottle and the ones who contribute can get it before its introduction in the market.

Miguel: What about new fragrances, are you planning to expand the line even further?

Celine: Yes, this year I will launch a new perfume and I'm working with perfumer,Thomas Fontaine.

Miguel: Ah, so is it based on the perfume he did for you at the Skin workshop in Fragranze?

Celine: That was the starting point, but I'm trying to make him do a very modern composition, different from what he usually does. In my brand I need a perfume for the Middle Eastern Market. I have citrus, fresh and resins in the line, I already have a bit of leather in Ombre Indigo and Chambre Noire too, but I lack a full-bodied oriental and so we are starting from that experience we did for Fragranze. It will have a lot of amber and animalic tones like styrax. Thomas tried to do it more in a floral way but I'm not into flowers, especially roses. And the perfume he did for the workshop in Florence was very vintage, which is not according to the style of Olfactive Studio. So I tried to push him to do a perfume that can be more unisex and modern, not vintage. It can still have a bit of a floral tone, but subdued to the ambers.

Miguel: Is it going to have oud in it?

Celine: No. When everyone is doing something, I stay away from it. In Panorama I had the original idea to introduce a wasabi accord, so in the next one I have to find another original idea, at least a new ingredient that can be different and surprising.

Photo from the event: Miguel Matos; all other images: Olfactive Studio

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with art and perfume. He is the editor of the art section at Time Out Lisbon and directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, besides contributing with texts for museums and art galleries. He collects perfume and is especially fond of vintages. He is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor ofFragrantica.com.br