Jardins d'Écrivains Marlowe: Translating Baroque Into Scent
05/15/15 15:35:43
by: Miguel Matos
www.atrbazan.com The perfume Refrence
Anaïs Biguine
Anaïs Biguine, from Jardins d'Écrivains, is a very beautiful woman—refined, elegant and also fun to be with. She is a very interesting woman and it was a pleasure to sit with her and have a quick chat about the fragrance she was launching in Milan, during the Esxence expo: Marlowe. The inspiration? Baroque literature. The perfume? Floral animalic and sexy as can be.
Christopher Marlowe“Christopher Marlowe was the ingenious bad boy of Elizabethian theatre. Handsome and good natured, Marlowe was also a spy and a student of the occult—not to mention the rival of his fellow playwright, Shakespeare. Marlowe had a tumultuous and bohemian life. He was fascinated by the self-destruction of the human spirit, which puts him on the same shelf as modern playwrights."—Jardins d'Ecrivains press release
Miguel Matos:
How did you start creating this new fragrance, Marlowe, the seventh in your brand?
How did you start creating this new fragrance, Marlowe, the seventh in your brand?
Anaïs Biguine:
I wanted to make a perfume about Baroque literature. This is a very big movement, geographically speaking. I wanted to choose an author to represent the Baroque movement. Chistopher Marlowe touched me in a very special way. He was a genius that died very early. If he had the chance to live longer, I think that he would be tremendous. He inspired Shakespeare and he did very important works for theatre. He is at the beginning of the Baroque movement. It's the era of the importance of knowledge and the great discoveries. A lot of raw materials, fragrances and essences came to us for the first time. The great collectors made their cabinets de curiosités. This erudition that came from the knowledge, has the animal aspect from nature, and the Baroque style. I decided to do an appropriation of the name Marlowe, which I think is beautiful for a perfume. If you name a perfume Shakespeare, you do a perfume for a museum. I don't like the easy, obvious things. Marlowe is not very famous but he was very important. This character was a bad boy, homosexual, rebellious ...
I wanted to make a perfume about Baroque literature. This is a very big movement, geographically speaking. I wanted to choose an author to represent the Baroque movement. Chistopher Marlowe touched me in a very special way. He was a genius that died very early. If he had the chance to live longer, I think that he would be tremendous. He inspired Shakespeare and he did very important works for theatre. He is at the beginning of the Baroque movement. It's the era of the importance of knowledge and the great discoveries. A lot of raw materials, fragrances and essences came to us for the first time. The great collectors made their cabinets de curiosités. This erudition that came from the knowledge, has the animal aspect from nature, and the Baroque style. I decided to do an appropriation of the name Marlowe, which I think is beautiful for a perfume. If you name a perfume Shakespeare, you do a perfume for a museum. I don't like the easy, obvious things. Marlowe is not very famous but he was very important. This character was a bad boy, homosexual, rebellious ...
Miguel:
And how did you translate all of this into a fragrance?
Anaïs:
I chose osmanthus which is an essence that makes me travel through time. It has the ability of giving an historical character to anything. It is very warm and it brings a notion of body, with its amber color, and I consider it would help me to tell this story. The dried flowers in it have to do with the poetry.
I chose osmanthus which is an essence that makes me travel through time. It has the ability of giving an historical character to anything. It is very warm and it brings a notion of body, with its amber color, and I consider it would help me to tell this story. The dried flowers in it have to do with the poetry.
Miguel:
But there's also a very strong note of tuberose.
But there's also a very strong note of tuberose.
Anaïs:
Yes, I thought it was a good idea, instead of going for the orientals. It has a very creamy side that I like.
Yes, I thought it was a good idea, instead of going for the orientals. It has a very creamy side that I like.
Miguel:
This tuberose has an evident balsamic tone.
This tuberose has an evident balsamic tone.
Anaïs:
It has and the association with tonkin musk gives it a natural vibe.
It has and the association with tonkin musk gives it a natural vibe.
Miguel:
Marlowe has a feminine side and also a masculine one ... It's a truly unisex fragrance and it has a woody and powdery aspect.
Marlowe has a feminine side and also a masculine one ... It's a truly unisex fragrance and it has a woody and powdery aspect.
Anaïs:
Yes, maybe because of the osmanthus you feel that and there's also elemi.
Yes, maybe because of the osmanthus you feel that and there's also elemi.
Miguel:
It's rich, but then again, Baroque is all about decoration.
It's rich, but then again, Baroque is all about decoration.
Anaïs:
It was a reaction against the austerity of the protestants. There was a need for opulence and tuberose is opulent and erotic. Proust has said that tuberose is the closest odor to the human smell. Well I guess it depends who you deal with! You know Proust, he used to take a lot of drugs ...
It was a reaction against the austerity of the protestants. There was a need for opulence and tuberose is opulent and erotic. Proust has said that tuberose is the closest odor to the human smell. Well I guess it depends who you deal with! You know Proust, he used to take a lot of drugs ...
Miguel:
You have another perfume in your brand that is closely related to the writers of the Beat generation and drugs, Junky. Is perfume a drug?
You have another perfume in your brand that is closely related to the writers of the Beat generation and drugs, Junky. Is perfume a drug?
Anaïs:
Junky is not an eulogy to drugs. I think that perfume has the power of putting you in an altered state just like a drug and it's also an addiction. Victor Hugo said that perfume awakens the thought. Perfume is a stimulant of emotions.
Junky is not an eulogy to drugs. I think that perfume has the power of putting you in an altered state just like a drug and it's also an addiction. Victor Hugo said that perfume awakens the thought. Perfume is a stimulant of emotions.
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Top notes:
tuberose, osmanthus, elemi
Middle notes:
myrrh, dried flowers
Base notes:
oakmoss, labdanum, tonkin musk, leather |  |
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