Hot Chaleur Gitane by Paul Emilien
04/27/15 15:44:53
by: Serguey Borisov
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I got a surprisingly warm welcome at the Paul Emilien stand this year. It was a very warm meeting in a couple of senses of the word. Anastasia and Paul talked very heartfully about their hot and spicy perfume, newPaul Emilien Chaleur Gitane.
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The bottle of red and gold became a surprise for me also. The majority ofPARTICIPANTS
had announced their novelties a few weeks ahead of the event, or at least teased the public with pictures of unnamed flacons of their new perfumes on social media. But Paul Emilien had kept silent. It was a true surprise when I smelled a wonderful spicy sandalwood amber fragrance several feet away from their booth.
had announced their novelties a few weeks ahead of the event, or at least teased the public with pictures of unnamed flacons of their new perfumes on social media. But Paul Emilien had kept silent. It was a true surprise when I smelled a wonderful spicy sandalwood amber fragrance several feet away from their booth.
Serguey Borisov:
Hello, Anastasia and Paul! Nice to meet you with a new perfume! What's the bright red new bottle you're presenting? Chaleur Gitane! Seems like it's the newest perfume!
Hello, Anastasia and Paul! Nice to meet you with a new perfume! What's the bright red new bottle you're presenting? Chaleur Gitane! Seems like it's the newest perfume!
Anastasia Mathieu:
We had an idea of a spicy hot perfume. If you can imagine gypsy people—they have strong characters and are so free, so energetic and cheerful. That's why we decided to make a spicy perfume, but also sweet and gourmand.
We had an idea of a spicy hot perfume. If you can imagine gypsy people—they have strong characters and are so free, so energetic and cheerful. That's why we decided to make a spicy perfume, but also sweet and gourmand.
Serguey Borisov:
Why?
Why?
Anastasia Mathieu:
Because they are so warm, so special, such open and inspiring people … We live in a French region that is adjacent to the Camargue. The city of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a world capital of all Roma.
Because they are so warm, so special, such open and inspiring people … We live in a French region that is adjacent to the Camargue. The city of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a world capital of all Roma.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
We go there quite often because we like its residents and the atmosphere in general. There are often held various music festivals and religious holidays. Anyway, it's simply interesting, it's never boring. Even a dinner in a restaurant—it's an excellent show: Gipsy Kings play the guitar and sing, women dancing flamenco ... We really like it, and therefore the idea popped in our minds, as gypsies are known throughout the world.
Serguey Borisov:
What does the name Chaleur Gitane mean?
What does the name Chaleur Gitane mean?
Anastasia Mathieu:
"Gypsy Heat" or "Gypsy Warmth." Look at the bottle—it's so hot, so flaming red, like a gypsy's dress or shirt.
"Gypsy Heat" or "Gypsy Warmth." Look at the bottle—it's so hot, so flaming red, like a gypsy's dress or shirt.
Serguey Borisov:
And you changed the bottle design, as far as I can see … For this special perfume, or for all the collection?
And you changed the bottle design, as far as I can see … For this special perfume, or for all the collection?
Paul Emilien:
Yes, we have changed the design of all our flacons. The stoppers were made smaller and the front wall of the bottles became transparent—the perfume liquid inside the bottle becomes clearly visible now, which stands out from the color of the rear bottle wall. The color code was saved: a blue bottle for Une Belle Journee, a black bottle forPure Addiction, white for other women's fragrances. Now we use a 24-karat gold coating in our design (pointing to the inscription on the bottle and stopper) and to secure the gold finish it requires repeated heating of the bottles, so the glass of the bottles becomes more smooth, transparent and glossy. We believe that the new design adds more value to our perfumes.
Yes, we have changed the design of all our flacons. The stoppers were made smaller and the front wall of the bottles became transparent—the perfume liquid inside the bottle becomes clearly visible now, which stands out from the color of the rear bottle wall. The color code was saved: a blue bottle for Une Belle Journee, a black bottle forPure Addiction, white for other women's fragrances. Now we use a 24-karat gold coating in our design (pointing to the inscription on the bottle and stopper) and to secure the gold finish it requires repeated heating of the bottles, so the glass of the bottles becomes more smooth, transparent and glossy. We believe that the new design adds more value to our perfumes.
Serguey Borisov:
This is a perfume with a bright character, very loud and olfactorily colorful. Do you think it could be popular?
This is a perfume with a bright character, very loud and olfactorily colorful. Do you think it could be popular?
Anastasia Mathieu:
Our previous fragrance, Une Belle Journee, too, was not very commercial and quite a risky project. We do not think about the commercial component. We still have some of our projects, and some projects will fall outside of your liking—and will it be popular or not, that's the choice of everyone, to love the fragrance or not to love it. People will decide themselves how much they love the perfume and how our ideas fits them. I believe in perfumes, not in thoughts. Frankly, I think that Chaleur Gitane will be successful, I wore it during testing time, and French men and women alike approached to me on the streets and said, “What an interesting perfume! What is it? What is it called?” And there was some special excitement at my hairdressing salon also. I just went in and out to make an appointment and all the salon was discussing my perfume for half an hour, as they cannot nail it, what kind of perfume I wear. It is interesting that there were no such a reaction about our other perfumes. In general, we like this fragrance, we believe Chaleur Gitane is very attractive, it shows a certain story.
Our previous fragrance, Une Belle Journee, too, was not very commercial and quite a risky project. We do not think about the commercial component. We still have some of our projects, and some projects will fall outside of your liking—and will it be popular or not, that's the choice of everyone, to love the fragrance or not to love it. People will decide themselves how much they love the perfume and how our ideas fits them. I believe in perfumes, not in thoughts. Frankly, I think that Chaleur Gitane will be successful, I wore it during testing time, and French men and women alike approached to me on the streets and said, “What an interesting perfume! What is it? What is it called?” And there was some special excitement at my hairdressing salon also. I just went in and out to make an appointment and all the salon was discussing my perfume for half an hour, as they cannot nail it, what kind of perfume I wear. It is interesting that there were no such a reaction about our other perfumes. In general, we like this fragrance, we believe Chaleur Gitane is very attractive, it shows a certain story.
Serguey Borisov:
The fragrance is hot. How did you translate heat to the fragrance?
The fragrance is hot. How did you translate heat to the fragrance?
Paul Emilien:
There's a saying: If you love a gypsy woman, you better need all her family to love you. Otherwise it could be a danger for you. Those are the gypsy characters! That's why we put some fire in the perfume. Woods and spices. And also, a campfire is so intrinsic for the nomadic gypsy life. The camp is built around the campfire, it's the place of everyday talks, songs and dances, dinners … Gypsies are strong and heartfelt people, just like a fire.
There's a saying: If you love a gypsy woman, you better need all her family to love you. Otherwise it could be a danger for you. Those are the gypsy characters! That's why we put some fire in the perfume. Woods and spices. And also, a campfire is so intrinsic for the nomadic gypsy life. The camp is built around the campfire, it's the place of everyday talks, songs and dances, dinners … Gypsies are strong and heartfelt people, just like a fire.
Anastasia Mathieu:
(spraying a blotter)
There are so many different spices in the perfume, such as cumin, saffron, ginger, black peppers from Indonesia and India. On the other hand, chocolate and vanilla, which were included in the perfume as gourmand notes, are also warm and warming, like spices. And you cannot call the woody notes such as patchouli, vetiver, Texas cedarwood and Australian sandalwood cold notes. They are also quite warm, powdery and warm. So, how do you find the fragrance so far?
(spraying a blotter)
There are so many different spices in the perfume, such as cumin, saffron, ginger, black peppers from Indonesia and India. On the other hand, chocolate and vanilla, which were included in the perfume as gourmand notes, are also warm and warming, like spices. And you cannot call the woody notes such as patchouli, vetiver, Texas cedarwood and Australian sandalwood cold notes. They are also quite warm, powdery and warm. So, how do you find the fragrance so far?
At the time of smelling, I simply said, "I like it!" but now I must admit this fragrance of spicy chocolate has taken my special attention.
You know, there is chocolate and and then there is chocolate. Popular chocolate and niche selective chocolate. We can apply this truth to any product. The same is true with perfumes and the price sometimes is not the border line. There are chocolate wizards, niche chocolatiers who create from the real stuff—cocoa beans, vanilla, sugar—and use their magic. There are no borders. Who said that chocolate had to be sweet? They add red and black pepper, tonka beans, ginger and cinnamon, cardamom and saffron, various exotic nuts.
Chaleur Gitane by Paul Emilien smells like one of those products from a niche chocolate producer. Chocolate here smells creamy and lactonic like sandalwood oil. It is spicy peppery, ambery-woody, but is still chocolate. A weird but recognizable one. Chaleur Gitane—it's not just about chocolates and gingerbread, it is also the acute sweat of flamenco dancers and spiced rum in hands of their onlookers. There is also a hint of lacquered guitars, burning wax candles in the darkness, and so much more.
Most probably, a special period in my life has come and I have started to fall easily in love with gourmand perfumes. But at least I insist that it has to be a very special gourmand smell to win my heart. Like the soft and warm lactonic sandalwood chord that made Frederic Malle Dries Van Noten, Jovoy Paris Sombre Dessins and the Frederic Malle Russian Nights candle so irresistible.
Anastasia and Paul said that Chaleur Gitane will appear in the late summer of 2015. Good timing: a hot fragrance to warm us during the long winter and to make a good gift for friends.
Most probably, a special period in my life has come and I have started to fall easily in love with gourmand perfumes. But at least I insist that it has to be a very special gourmand smell to win my heart. Like the soft and warm lactonic sandalwood chord that made Frederic Malle Dries Van Noten, Jovoy Paris Sombre Dessins and the Frederic Malle Russian Nights candle so irresistible.
Anastasia and Paul said that Chaleur Gitane will appear in the late summer of 2015. Good timing: a hot fragrance to warm us during the long winter and to make a good gift for friends.
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