Thursday, April 30, 2015

Lime, Gardenia & Benzoin and Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar from Dame Perfumery Scottsdale

Lime, Gardenia & Benzoin and Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar from Dame Perfumery Scottsdale

04/28/15 17:41:43 
In April, Dame Perfumery Scottsdale launched two new women's fragrances in their Eau de Toilette collection. In keeping with the house's theme of highlighting three key notes in a fragrance, the new releases—Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar and Lime, Gardenia & Benzoin—offer cheery floral notes perfect for the warm weather to come.
Founder Jeffrey Dame describes the new fragrances for us. "Both scents are wonderful of course, and the Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar is a particularly happy and uplifting scent for this time of year, bright and cheery. But I bring your attention to the Lime, Gardenia & Benzoin which is a delectable white floral and the best gardenia you have ever smelled."
Dame Perfumery Scottsdale
Modern American Perfumery
 
"Three elements neatly balanced for simple, clean and pure beauty. A bright top note, a pretty floral heart and a warm sensual drydown matched together and blended to perfection."—Dame Perfumery Scottsdale
 
 
Top notes:  lime, bergamot, grapefruit, black pepper, marigold
 
Middle notes:  gardenia, white pepper, honeysuckle, jasmine, orange flower, lily of the valley, carnation, tuberose, ylang, hyacinth and rose
 
Dry down notes: benzoin, tolu, musk
 
 
Top notes:  mandarin, cassis, basil leaves, cardamom, and bergamot 
 
Middle notes:   neroli, muguet and orange flower  
 
Dry down notes:  cedarwood, musk, violet, moss and vetiver
 
Both new fragrances are available as 100 ml Eau de Toilette with a retail price of $65.00.
The two new releases bring the DPS offering to eight fresh and clean eau de toilette mixes for women, to bring a smile to your face and warmth to your heart.

Cassis, Rose & Sandalwood
Mate, Heliotrope & Patchouli
Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom & Vetiver
Peach Blossom, Violet & Vanilla
Pear, Waterlily & Amber
Verbena, Freesia & Musk
Lime, Gardenia & Benzoin
Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar
All eight women's eaux de toilette, men's cologne Herb Man and the three scents in the Artist Collection—Black Flower Mexican VanillaDesert Rose and Dark Horse—are available on the official Dame Perfumery Scottsdale website.
Source: Dame Perfumery Scottsdale
Jodi Battershell(NebraskaLovesScentis a lifelong Nebraskan who transplanted herself to Philadelphia after 42 years on the Great Plains. An appreciator of fine fragrances since childhood, she tried her hand at natural perfumery and fragrance-mixing for a number of years, ultimately concluding she was better suited to appreciating the fragrance creations of others. She is pleased to finally be putting her English degree to use as a writer and editor for Fragrantica.com.

The Miraculous Elixir: Vinaigre de Toilette

The Miraculous Elixir: Vinaigre de Toilette

04/28/15 16:54:53 
Bitter herbs, camphor, acid and spice, 
those are the things protecting men who are wise.
The above yours-truly-authored little verse was inspired by one of the most miraculous scented products I have ever investigated in my historian capacity. Can a man's bodily protection rely on a scented preparation? Really? The course of history proves that not only could it have been possible, it must have been likely.
During the great plague in Toulouse between 1628-1631 (claiming 500,000 victims), four thieves were looting the houses of the dead, completely unharmed by the pestilence. When found out, they were arrested and incarcerated. About to be burned at the stake, the thieves inadvertently intrigued the judges thanks to their resilience to the Bubonic plague. In an effort to find out how that was possible, they offered the more lenient death by hanging, in exchange for their secret: the scented recipe of the elixir which they rubbed their entire body for protection before entering the houses. From this story, the name Le Vinaigre des 4 Voleurs ("'Four Thieves Vinegar" and alsoAcetum Quator Furum) was coined.
The same incident also happened in Marseilles in 1720, whereupon the thieves voluntarily shared the recipe with the afflicted city people, thus saving their own lives as well. From that incident Le Vinaigre des 4 Voleurs also gained the names of Marseilles Vinegar or Marseilles Remedy. 
In fact, before the sanitation of European cities in the 18th century, delineated in great detail and analytical depth in Alain Corbain's seminal work Le miasme et la Jonquille, the use of aromatics and fragrances was based predominantly on their prophylactic role; hence the name Prophylactic Water.
During plagues perfumer-doctors visited houses with aromatics molded into a gigantic bird’s beak to protect themselves. As those “witch doctors,” with their duck-like noses, were often no more efficient for the pestilence than the placebo effect, the term “quack” became a synonym for charlatan!
Nevertheless the inclusion of camphor, spice and garlic in those elusive protective elixirs does have a footing in science. Put a clove of garlic or a clove (clou de girofle) on a petri dish and watch it under the microscope to see how bacteria and microbes cannot enter its inner sanctum, keeping their distance. The reasoning probably has to do as much with their flea repellent action as with the direct influence on the microorganisms. Fleas and the mice they infected, as well as dogs, had been a supreme carrier of the grave disease that spread through Europe like wild fire. 
French aromatherapy doctor Jean Valnet (1920-1995) gave the story credence. In his book, The Practice of Aromatherapy, he quotes the archives of the Parliament of Toulouse, going on to claim the original recipe was revealed by the four corpse robbers who were caught red-handed in the area around Toulouse in 1628-1631. 
One recipe, said to be an accurate reproduction of the 1720 Marseilles incident, widely circulating in the 1930s, stipulated:

"Take three pints of strong white wine vinegar, add a handful of each of wormwood, meadowsweet, wild marjoram and sage, fifty cloves, two ounces of campanula roots, two ounces of angelic, rosemary and horehound and three large measures of champhor. Place the mixture in a container for fifteen days, strain and express then bottle. Use by rubbing it on the hands, ears and temples from time to time when approaching a plague victim."

The Four Thieves Vinegar was inscribed in a codex in 1748, a short time before the French Revolution, andCONTINUED to sell at chemists as an antiseptic. Such is its reputation and familiarity with the crowds that an epigrammatist uses it as a tile for verse that reads as a metaphor for four disgraced ministers: Boynes, Maupeou, Terray and Aiguillon.1
In previous centuries ladies and gentlemen of repute guarded with great pride their recipes for the respective homemade elixirs, perfumes and unguents and it was not unusual for large estates to dedicate a still room, dedicated to the preparation of these valuable concoctions. The rise of the apothecary as the purveyor of scented products only made access more widely available and falls in step with the advent of sanitation and greater attention to hygiene which was the development of the 18th century.
The recipe for the milder skin elixir comprised apple cider vinegar, thanks to its closeness to the natural Ph of the skin contrary to the more acidic wine vinegar. The acid would have cosmetic uses, since the harsh alkali-rich soaps would disrobe the natural acidic mantle of the skin, whereas the finishing with vinegar (alcoholic or not, as the formula stipulated) would help rebalance the skin. It would also act as an anti-microbe aid for people with spots. In an era when skin disfiguration due to various conditions was not unheard of, the benefits of a preventative measure were significant. Hence the Acetum Compositum Antisepticum variants .... Absinthe officinaleArtemisia ponticaSalvia officinalisRuta graveolensAcorus calamus,Myristica moschata (mace), Laurus cinnamomLavandula veraMentha piperita,Rosemarinums officinalis ... the list reads like an herbarium. 

Rosemary, from The Forest Apothecary
Rosemary seems to have been a particularly beloved ingredient in the preparation of scented products at the time, not least forgetting the mention in Shakespeare's Hamlet "There's Rosemary, that's for Remembraunce [sic]." After all, the great playwright was not unfamiliar with the great plague, having siblings lost to the disease and his theater shut down due to the London outbreaks between 1593 and 1608.
Rosemary was after all the "magic" ingredient in another miraculous fragrant preparation: the Eau de Reine d'Hongrie! 
William Langham's Garden of Health (1579) holds rosemary in high regard: "Seethe much rosemary, and bathe therein to make thee lusty, lively, joyfull [sic] likeing [sic] and youngly."2
In the English language the earliest mention is in the 1825 Pharmacologia, where the Marseilles story is recounted. But the fascinating part is that it follows it by saying : "It was, however, long used before the plague of Marseilles, for it was the constant custom of Cardinal Wolsey to carry in his hand an orange, deprived of its contents, and filled with a sponge which had been soaked in vinegar impregnated with various spices, in order to preserve himself from infection, when passing through the crowds which his splendour or office attracted. The first plaque raged in 1649, whereas Wolsey died in 1531."
But there's also contention as to the origin by the Atlantic coast: Dr. John Christopher has a slightly different story and a variation of the formula that is clearly American, not French. His "Four Thieves" story is that there was a man named Richard Forthave who developed a remedy for the plague that was marketed under his name, a name which was corrupted to "Four Thieves."3
One particularly pliable and easy DIY recipe for Vinaigre de Toilette for skin conditioning (if not plague prophylactic properties) requires:

1 handful of aromatic herbs, including rosemary, lavender, aniseed, verbena, melisa, dried rose petals
1 liter of apple cider vinegar
You need to bring the vinegar to the boil on the stove. Add the plants and bring the temperature down to a low simmer. 
Bring it off the fire, pour into a jar or stoneware and let it marinate for at least a fortnight. 
When ready, filter through a thin gauze or mouselline cloth placed in a funnel in order to catch all impurities, into glass bottles. 
It is ready to use!

Nowadays the scented "vinegar" is still sold in traditional apothecaries. Its benefits start from the removal of lice and nits, extend to hair and mucous membranes sanitation, headaches (applied on temples), even for respiratory problems. 
Modern outfits, such as Diptyque and Oriza Legrand, both offer this elusive, deeply- delving-in-history product: Vinaigre de toilette in retro typeface labels. Ailments be darned!
References:
1. Mémoires secrets de Bachaumont de 1762 à 1787, vol. 4, Paris, 1830, p. 404
2. Quote from Rosetta Clarkson, Magic Gardens, 1939 New York MacMilan, p.118

Eau Sauvage Cologne Christian Dior: New and Original

Eau Sauvage Cologne Christian Dior: New and Original

04/28/15 16:03:41 
Perfume lovers' relations with new and old may surprise the uninitiated people by their inconsistency and confusion. We forgive 30-years old vintage perfumes their far-from-ideal smell but categorically do not forgive that our favorite perfume formula was changed once again. We love the discontinued and rare perfumes (though usually the next day after it's been officially announced) and adore announcements of new perfume launches (easily condemning their similarity to each other). We complain that the perfume, bought a year ago, has changed already and then read through the Fragrantica announcements, in search of better new products.

In general, we love both old and new. We love to push the boundaries of the unknown. New fragrances are always interesting. Good old and legendary ones are also always interesting. Just to learn something we didn't know.
That's why I was discovering new fragrance Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne with interest AND a sinking heart. It seems to be the same classic form, but not in its details: a white box; the ribbon around the bottle is not metallic but white/silver; the stopper is white/silver also but with a 'CD' monogram on top and fastens on with trendy magnets. And it is quite a clear liquid, in contrast to the yellow-tinted eau de toilette created by Edmond Roudnitska. Had the legendary cologne-savage lost its character together with its color?
No. It is a different perfume.
A hands-on comparison of the new Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne with previous versions of Eau Sauvage, the oldest of which is Christian Dior  Eau Sauvage Pour Homme eau de toilette in a splash bottle, showed that they all share genes of citrus freshness and belong to the army of colognes. Comparing the smells made me surprised that they have the same name, just like with any other man-made object (telephones, ships, planes, shoes) that has a long history of development.
So, Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne is a fresh citrus cologne. What sort of cologne is it? Powerfully refreshing, unusually long lasting and therefore it feels more synthetic. Where the old EDT version hides its lemons, bergamot, rosemary and transparent jasmine under the oakmoss and carnations, hinting at a relationship with chypre family through the Diorella girl, the new EDC versionCONTINUES to trumpet the secret of citrus eternal life in the form of grapefruit and white musks, ushering in a new way of freshness.
The secret was found by Francois Demachy for grapefruity Dior Homme Cologne (2013) in a white bottle. Now Eau Sauvage Cologne Christian Dior also became white, both externally and by its internal content. Now it is not a soft white glow for three hours, but a sharp, radiant, even blinding whiteness that will last all day.
The new version lacks the aromatic line of Provençal herbs (rosemary, basil) and dry moss base almost completely. There are white musks, a sharp metallic luster, the white thick peel of grapefruit zest and its freshness extended by a sharp vetiver accord. Yes, it's quite different from the EDT. But no one will say: “Who is wearing grandpa's cologne?” The new cologne is so up-to-date and contemporary, made for a young man of the 21stI century.
Here is how Christian Dior brand explains the changes in its press release:

"…Born as a symbol of renewal, Eau Sauvage appears in 1966, sweeping away everything old. This unexpected, unprecedented fragrance embodies the image of the restless youth—bright, bustling, finding his own way. Since then, Eau Sauvage gained the status of the great classics.
His courage has turned into an absolute standard. Permanently popular for every new generation it impresses. Today, it seeks to conquer again a modern young people.

2015: Eau Sauvage starts a new revolution. The new version of the fragrance—cologne is born. Stunningly spectacular, so different. Invincible ... Eau Sauvage Cologne, rebellious heritage.

How to create a new interpretation of a legend? Carefully but deliberately breaking down the foundations. With reverence, but with an audacity. Fresh and bright fragrance Eau Sauvage Cologne astonishes. Its timeless elegance is easily recognizable, but features a new face and new nuances. Instantaneous, exciting, undoubted charm. A new modern cologne that goes beyond fashion trends and seasons. New youth of legendary composition ..."
 
So many words to say the simple thing: Eau Sauvage will be quite different in the 21st century.  More precisely: there will be many different faces of Eau Sauvage. Because the face of the eau de toilette of the twentieth century is different from all the modern namesake fragrances: from Eau Sauvage EDT, from Eau Sauvage Extreme, from Eau Sauvage Parfum, and especially new Eau Sauvage Cologne. And all four of these “savages” of the 21st century are like the four sons of a father passed down into history.
We started to forget gradually about the former legend's true face, which we remembered after a lot of perfumers, critics and users praised it. The face immortalized by René Gruau's illustrations and by Alain Delon's young face. Almost half a century has passed since its launch. People were so different in those times; so many things and ideas have changed in 50 years. What we consider the ideal vacation, the ideal telephones, the cars and the best running shoes look so different now. And so, ideal values ​​for human beings have changed, too. The image of the rebels and the air of freedom in the 60s are different from what we consider freedom and rebels to be today, in the 21st century.
Start notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Tangerine, Petitgrain, Anise;
Heart notes: Hedione, Pink Pepper, Galbanum;
Base notes: Musks, Vetiver.

Guerlain Issues a Sweeter Petite Robe Noire Targeting the North American Market

Guerlain Issues a Sweeter Petite Robe Noire Targeting the North American Market

04/28/15 05:04:53 (39 comments)
 
Guerlain has a challenge to increase brand awareness in North America, says William Lescure, president of Guerlain Canada. An ambitious plain aiming for a 1.5 to 2% share in the mid term and sales rising up to $21 million in 2015 has been carefully designed to that end and one of their best-selling perfumes is a pivotal element in that as transpires from the latest reportage. 
 
In Montreal, Guerlain closed its Greene Ave. institute at the end of 2014, after eight years, retaining a Bloor St. beauty emporium, redeploying staff to Toronto and Vancouver. The MontrealBOUTIQUE never broke even, Lescure explains. The client list on the other hand was transferred to Ogilvy's (which acquired a new counter and treatment cabin for its Guerlain customers). 
 
 
Guerlain is therefore pushing ahead with a marketing plan to build brand awareness. "We are a cosmetic company, a marketing company. My number one strategy is to raise brand awareness." To this end fragrance director Sylvaine Delacourte presided over a Shalimar presentation at The Marvels and Mirages of Orientalism at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts last week, as well as a workshop on the bases of theGuerlinade, the "common thread" between Guerlain historical fragrances. 
 
 
The plan includes a new version of La Petite Robe Noire for the North American market, to be launched next year. La PetiteROBE Noire is already an international hit, purposefully lacking a muse for the scent with only the silhouette of a little black dress as the protagonist in commercial ads and bottle illustrations. "We wanted to break the code of the perfume industry and we succeeded," says Lescure. However, he adds, the scent is not sweet enough for North American tastes. And this is probably this detail which makes it so very interesting for perfume lovers with a vested interest in Guerlain, thanks to its prestige and historical gravitas.
 
 
It's therefore with some trepidation that we announce that Guerlain is going ahead with a whole new rendition of the ultra-popular scentTARGETED at this specific market "who wants something more refined and subtle than the mass market perfumes". The question does arise on whether there is a point in fixing something that is not broken (La Petite Robe Noire was first and foremost a huge American hit) in order to attain a goal for whom the one lonely scent is but one pillar of the building. There is also the question whether there will be two editions, the American market one ultimately engulfing the international one or the two co-existing at the supreme confusion of travelers and duty-free buyers. 
 
 
An article at the Montral Gazette specifies that although Guerlain is a small cog in the mighty gilded wheel of luxury giant LVMH, William Lescure is happy that each brand works independently to ensure brand identity and that Guerlain plays its part from an ordinary warehouse at La Salle; "I know it's not very sexy. But it's very flexible".

Guerlain Issues a Sweeter Petite Robe Noire Targeting the North American Market

Guerlain Issues a Sweeter Petite Robe Noire Targeting the North American Market

04/28/15 05:04:53 
 
Guerlain has a challenge to increase brand awareness in North America, says William Lescure, president of Guerlain Canada. An ambitious plain aiming for a 1.5 to 2% share in the mid term and sales rising up to $21 million in 2015 has been carefully designed to that end and one of their best-selling perfumes is a pivotal element in that as transpires from the latest reportage. 
 
In Montreal, Guerlain closed its Greene Ave. institute at the end of 2014, after eight years, retaining a Bloor St. beauty emporium, redeploying staff to Toronto and Vancouver. The MontrealBOUTIQUE never broke even, Lescure explains. The client list on the other hand was transferred to Ogilvy's (which acquired a new counter and treatment cabin for its Guerlain customers). 
 
 
Guerlain is therefore pushing ahead with a marketing plan to build brand awareness. "We are a cosmetic company, a marketing company. My number one strategy is to raise brand awareness." To this end fragrance director Sylvaine Delacourte presided over a Shalimar presentation at The Marvels and Mirages of Orientalism at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts last week, as well as a workshop on the bases of theGuerlinade, the "common thread" between Guerlain historical fragrances. 
 
 
The plan includes a new version of La Petite Robe Noire for the North American market, to be launched next year. La PetiteROBE Noire is already an international hit, purposefully lacking a muse for the scent with only the silhouette of a little black dress as the protagonist in commercial ads and bottle illustrations. "We wanted to break the code of the perfume industry and we succeeded," says Lescure. However, he adds, the scent is not sweet enough for North American tastes. And this is probably this detail which makes it so very interesting for perfume lovers with a vested interest in Guerlain, thanks to its prestige and historical gravitas.
 
 
It's therefore with some trepidation that we announce that Guerlain is going ahead with a whole new rendition of the ultra-popular scentTARGETED at this specific market "who wants something more refined and subtle than the mass market perfumes". The question does arise on whether there is a point in fixing something that is not broken (La Petite Robe Noire was first and foremost a huge American hit) in order to attain a goal for whom the one lonely scent is but one pillar of the building. There is also the question whether there will be two editions, the American market one ultimately engulfing the international one or the two co-existing at the supreme confusion of travelers and duty-free buyers. 
 
 
An article at the Montral Gazette specifies that although Guerlain is a small cog in the mighty gilded wheel of luxury giant LVMH, William Lescure is happy that each brand works independently to ensure brand identity and that Guerlain plays its part from an ordinary warehouse at La Salle; "I know it's not very sexy. But it's very flexible".

Pour un Homme de Caron: The Eternal Perfume Made Even Better

Pour un Homme de Caron: The Eternal Perfume Made Even Better

04/27/15 16:47:03 
Caron is a brand that I worship. There, I confessed it! But it's not the easiest brand to communicate with. It has been two years since I began trying to build a connection with someone within the house, with no success whatsoever. Last year's Esxence, Fragranze and Cannes were all failures when it came to getting useful information and establishing a good relation with the people at Caron. I even went to the two flagship stores in Paris with no success. Well, this is a symbol of French perfumery and so the mood of the staff is a symbol of typical Parisian manners: cold and snobbish. But I am persistent and in the last edition of Esxence, all my efforts paid off as I met a nice, friendly and professional guy named Manuel Ramos who took me on a guided tour around the Caron booth.
As I was salivating over bottles and sparkles (passing by the masterpiece which, to me, is Tabac Blond), we stopped at the Pour un Homme display, for there it was: a bottle I had never seen before. Apparently it had been launched last year and almost no communication was done around it: Pour un Homme Millésime 2014.
Caron is an unquestionable icon in the world of French perfumery and in this universe of utter luxury and vintage perfection, there is a landmark dedicated to all stylish men in the world. It's a universal scent, classic and fresh, natural and sophisticated at once: Pour un Homme. This fragrance has just turned 80 years old in 2014 and it remains relevant and successful. This proves that timeless compositions still find their way in this saturated market. The green floral freshness of lavender combined with sweet vanilla makes it a paradigmatic contrast that can only be compared to other giants like Guerlain's Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur, two other lavender-based male perfumes that never go out of style. In my opinion, choosing a classic old-fashioned fragrance and wearing it now is an act of modernity and a step away from smelling like everyone else.


Caron had already revisited the composition of Pour un Homme in the flanker Impact(2005) and the result was not too far from the original, only deeper and more intense. To celebrate 80 years of Pour Un Homme, Caron decided to improve the formula and, as I see it, go back to the original vintage scent. The new edition Pour Un Homme Millésime 2014 has a stronger oriental accord, as the perfumer Richard Fraysse chose to overdose it with more vanilla and amber. The animalic aspect is also more evident now, due to the increase of musk notes. So this is not just a lavender scent. The notes that were just in the base previously are now pushed to the heart. This is a soliflore only for the first ten minutes, as lavender fades and the deep, sweet, oriental facets emerge soon in the development. It all turns sweeter and warmer as it moves into the drydown and it becomes even more obvious the enormous influence this perfume has in the fragrance industry even 80 years after its creation. Just think about Jean Paul Gaultier's blockbuster Le Male and you can see the clear lineage from one to another. Well, this is only to explain the relevance of Caron's lavender, never consider choosing Le Male over Pour un Homme!


“Richard Fraysse, Perfumer Creator for Caron, has transcended the original formula with a unique selection of the most floral lavenders and noblest vanillas. The exceptional result, which remains true to the legendary accord, perfectly encapsulates the quintessence of Pour un Homme, capturing its many facets with the greatest intensity. A bolder vanilla and lavender come together in a fanfare of incredible sensuality. The amber and musk base notes are more persistent. A unique fragrance with an assertive character. The bottle is graced with green lacquer and a metal label to mark the occasion.”—Caron


All in all, it's not a dramatic change to the familiar Pour un Homme, and that's a good thing. What I find is that this is more true to the original edition back in the day and a good improvement in a fragrance that I already considered great.

Hot Chaleur Gitane by Paul Emilien

Hot Chaleur Gitane by Paul Emilien

04/27/15 15:44:53 

I got a surprisingly warm welcome at the Paul Emilien stand this year. It was a very warm meeting in a couple of senses of the word. Anastasia and Paul talked very heartfully about their hot and spicy perfume, newPaul Emilien Chaleur Gitane.
The bottle of red and gold became a surprise for me also. The majority ofPARTICIPANTS had announced their novelties a few weeks ahead of the event, or at least teased the public with pictures of unnamed flacons of their new perfumes on social media. But Paul Emilien had kept silent. It was a true surprise when I smelled a wonderful spicy sandalwood amber fragrance several feet away from their booth.
Serguey Borisov:
Hello, Anastasia and Paul! Nice to meet you with a new perfume! What's the bright red new bottle you're presenting? Chaleur Gitane! Seems like it's the newest perfume!
Anastasia Mathieu:
We had an idea of a spicy hot perfume. If you can imagine gypsy people—they have strong characters and are so free, so energetic and cheerful. That's why we decided to make a spicy perfume, but also sweet and gourmand.
Serguey Borisov:
Why?
Anastasia Mathieu:
Because they are so warm, so special, such open and inspiring people … We live in a French region that is adjacent to the Camargue. The city of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a world capital of all Roma.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
We go there quite often because we like its residents and the atmosphere in general. There are often held various music festivals and religious holidays. Anyway, it's simply interesting, it's never boring. Even a dinner in a restaurant—it's an excellent show: Gipsy Kings play the guitar and sing, women dancing flamenco ... We really like it, and therefore the idea popped in our minds, as gypsies are known throughout the world.
Serguey Borisov:
What does the name Chaleur Gitane mean?
Anastasia Mathieu:
"Gypsy Heat" or "Gypsy Warmth." Look at the bottle—it's so hot, so flaming red, like a gypsy's dress or shirt.
Serguey Borisov:
And you changed the bottle design, as far as I can see … For this special perfume, or for all the collection?
Paul Emilien:
Yes, we have changed the design of all our flacons. The stoppers were made smaller and the front wall of the bottles became transparent—the perfume liquid inside the bottle becomes clearly visible now, which stands out from the color of the rear bottle wall. The color code was saved: a blue bottle for Une Belle Journee, a black bottle forPure Addiction, white for other women's fragrances. Now we use a 24-karat gold coating in our design (pointing to the inscription on the bottle and stopper) and to secure the gold finish it requires repeated heating of the bottles, so the glass of the bottles becomes more smooth, transparent and glossy. We believe that the new design adds more value to our perfumes.
Serguey Borisov:
This is a perfume with a bright character, very loud and olfactorily colorful. Do you think it could be popular?
Anastasia Mathieu:
Our previous fragrance, Une Belle Journee, too, was not very commercial and quite a risky project. We do not think about the commercial component. We still have some of our projects, and some projects will fall outside of your liking—and will it be popular or not, that's the choice of everyone, to love the fragrance or not to love it. People will decide themselves how much they love the perfume and how our ideas fits them. I believe in perfumes, not in thoughts. Frankly, I think that Chaleur Gitane will be successful, I wore it during testing time, and French men and women alike approached to me on the streets and said, “What an interesting perfume! What is it? What is it called?” And there was some special excitement at my hairdressing salon also. I just went in and out to make an appointment and all the salon was discussing my perfume for half an hour, as they cannot nail it, what kind of perfume I wear. It is interesting that there were no such a reaction about our other perfumes. In general, we like this fragrance, we believe Chaleur Gitane is very attractive, it shows a certain story. 
Serguey Borisov:
The fragrance is hot. How did you translate heat to the fragrance?
Paul Emilien:
There's a saying: If you love a gypsy woman, you better need all her family to love you. Otherwise it could be a danger for you. Those are the gypsy characters! That's why we put some fire in the perfume. Woods and spices. And also, a campfire is so intrinsic for the nomadic gypsy life. The camp is built around the campfire, it's the place of everyday talks, songs and dances, dinners … Gypsies are strong and heartfelt people, just like a fire.
Anastasia Mathieu:
(spraying a blotter)
There are so many different spices in the perfume, such as cumin, saffron, ginger, black peppers from Indonesia and India. On the other hand, chocolate and vanilla, which were included in the perfume as gourmand notes, are also warm and warming, like spices. And you cannot call the woody notes such as patchouli, vetiver, Texas cedarwood and Australian sandalwood cold notes. They are also quite warm, powdery and warm. So, how do you find the fragrance so far?

At the time of smelling, I simply said, "I like it!" but now I must admit this fragrance of spicy chocolate has taken my special attention.

You know, there is chocolate and and then there is chocolate. Popular chocolate and niche selective chocolate. We can apply this truth to any product. The same is true with perfumes and the price sometimes is not the border line. There are chocolate wizards, niche chocolatiers who create from the real stuff—cocoa beans, vanilla, sugar—and use their magic. There are no borders. Who said that chocolate had to be sweet? They add red and black pepper, tonka beans, ginger and cinnamon, cardamom and saffron, various exotic nuts.
Chaleur Gitane by Paul Emilien smells like one of those products from a niche chocolate producer. Chocolate here smells creamy and lactonic like sandalwood oil. It is spicy peppery, ambery-woody, but is still chocolate. A weird but recognizable one. Chaleur Gitane—it's not just about chocolates and gingerbread, it is also the acute sweat of flamenco dancers and spiced rum in hands of their onlookers. There is also a hint of lacquered guitars, burning wax candles in the darkness, and so much more.

Most probably, a special period in my life has come and I have started to fall easily in love with gourmand perfumes. But at least I insist that it has to be a very special gourmand smell to win my heart. Like the soft and warm lactonic sandalwood chord that made Frederic Malle Dries Van NotenJovoy Paris Sombre Dessins and the Frederic Malle Russian Nights candle so irresistible.

Anastasia and Paul said that Chaleur Gitane will appear in the late summer of 2015. Good timing: a hot fragrance to warm us during the long winter and to make a good gift for friends.

Monday, April 27, 2015

Miller et Bertaux: new scent Study #17

Miller et Bertaux: new scent Study #17

04/27/15 06:45:49 (One comment)

Two artists from Paris - Francis Miller and Patrick Bertaux - are launching their tenth perfume within Miller et Bertaux perfume collection - Study #17
This green chypre is called to show the idea of  abstract 'almost nothing' (l'abstraction du rien), but also it brings the freshness of after rain air that is thrown by wind into an opened window. 
Famous for their minimalist style both in packaging and in pyramids, Miller et Bertaux follow this rule again. Study #17 positoned as simple scent, existing at the edge of presence-absence, that becames on skin nearly distinctive. 
The new scent's character has something in common with  Miller et Bertaux l'eau de parfum #3 Green, green and green.



Top notes: bergamot, lemon, tarragon, mint, green notes
Heart notes: geranium, black currant, jasmin, rhubarb
Base notes: moss, patchouli, lichen





Fragrance is already available at Nose.fr  as 100ml Eau de Parfum.
www.atrbazan.com

Lattafa Perfumes: Fakhar Lattafa and Tamayuz Lattafa

Lattafa Perfumes: Fakhar Lattafa and Tamayuz Lattafa

04/27/15 06:20:56
Fans of fragrances Lattafa Perfumes of the United Arab Emirates will be thrilled by two new editions which arrived on the market in March 2015. The fragrance presented in a flacon with golden details is Fakhar Lattafa with a floral-woody composition, while black lacquered flacon with silver details hides the edition called Tamayuz Lattafa with a fougere-woody composition.
Fakhar Lattafa introduces rich, sunny and juicy shades of orange blended with zests of peach, pear and apple, refreshed with tart black currant. The heart adds floral notes of sambac jasmine, rose and orange blossom enhanced with woody accords of patchouli and sandalwood. The base is deepened and warmed with musk and sensual vanilla. 
FAKHAR LATTAFA
floral-woody fragrance

orange, peach, pear, apple, black currant
jasmine sambac, orange blossom, rose
patcholi, sandalwood, musk, vanilla
Tamayuz Lattafa highlights a fougere – woody union along with elegant notes of violet leaf, masculine nutmeg and bergamot. The heart accentuates clary sage, tart geranium and orange blossom finely spiced with coriander, while tonka, patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood linger in trail, which attract our attention with strong creamy shades.
TAMAYUZ LATTAFA
fougere - drveni miris

violet leaf, numeg, bergamot
clary sage, roange blossom, geranium, coriander
tonka, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla
Fakhar Lattafa and Tamayuz Lattafa are available as 100ml Eau de Parfum, according to the brand Lattafa Perfumes.
www.atrbazan.ir

Vespa Sensazione

Vespa Sensazione

04/27/15 04:07:34
The first perfume pair from Vespa was launched in the summer of 2014. Vespa Sensazione is a new pair that appears in the spring of 2015. Vespa Sensazione is a new retro, vivacious and spontaneous version of the fragrances inspired by the cult motorcycles.

Vespa Sensazione for Her is a cheerful floral-fruity fragrance. The top notes are lime, lychee and pear. The heart is made of water lily, cinnamon and sea accords. The base ends with peach, vanilla and sandalwood. Juliette Karagueuzoglou is the nose.


Vespa Sensazione for Him is an aromatic, fruity and woody fragrance. It opens with accords of mandarin, apple and rhubarb. The heart icludes black tea, lavender and fig wood, laid on the base of patchouli, vanilla and ambrox. It is created by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud.


The fragrances are available as 30 and 50 ml Eau de Toilette.
www.atrbazan.ir