Tom Ford launches the new fragrance which belongs to the collection Private Blend presented as unisex edition which blends expressive pepper-based notes with exotic floral notes and creamy woody shades.
VENETIAN BERGAMOT opens with green and tart aromas of bergamot which is surrounded with bitter and cold chords of black pepper and cheerful pink pepper, while ginger enhances sharpness and citrusy scent. The heart mixes warm and intoxicating shades of ylang-ylang combined with gardenia and magnolia. Woody blend of cedar and Californian bay leaf (Pepperwood / myrtle from Oregon / Umbellularia) provides a rougher character to floral aromas, while the finish is provided by warm aromas of sandalwood, tonka, amber and cashmeran.
Sculptural bottle shaped like a falcon with bluish facets marked the fragrant collection by Police by symbolizing magnificence and elegance. We could have guessed that Police would continue in the same style and offer another ‘falcon’ in the collection, firstly in the Middle East and later worldwide. The new edition ICON INTENSE was announced as a more intense version of last year’s fragrance Police Icon and arrives in the same falcon-shaped bottle in black color with a gold-color metal plate. Popular combination of black and gold is still popular and very attractive among perfume bottles. Glass body of the falcon is semi-transparent and you can see inside the bottle. Black glass facets play with light and shadows to create a more attractive presentation of glass bird.
Composition of the new Icon Intense is announced as a union of oriental, woody and spicy notes that convey strength and elegance of a man. The fragrance opens with cheerful and explosive blend of bergamot, pink pepper and cardamom, leading to a heart created of clary sage and orris. Sensual masculine note originates from white cedar which enhances the powdery-aromatic blend in the heart. Base of the composition brings a deep, warm blend of patchouli, benzoin and crystal amber.
I must admit, I am a newcomer to the music of artist Zola Jesus. After watching and listening online to get a feel for it, I'm intrigued by her sound and her visual aesthetic. The brief video above doesn't fully showcase her powerful voice and unique musical stylings, so I'm including another video below which displays both to greater effect. Both videos also fit the theme of this article, which is also the theme of the perfume I am exploring: Zola Jesus Taiga from Blackbird.
Zola Jesus is the stage name for artist Nika Roza Danilova (in Russian: Ника Роза Данилова), an American-born vocalist and multi-instrumentalist of Russian descent. A classically trained musician raised in the forests of rural Wisconsin, she cites a myriad of influences across multiple genres—punk, new wave, no wave, pop, opera—which inform her unique sound today. Zola Jesus has released five albums to date, with the most recent being 2014's Taiga, after the Russian snowforest.
It's fitting on many levels that Zola Jesus teamed up with edgy Seattle, Washington design studio Blackbird to create a fragrance that captures the essence of her latest album. More than 50% of the state of Washington is covered by forests. Taiga was written on Vashon Island, which is near Seattle. The tree-filled video for "Dangerous Days" was filmed in Washington's Hoh Rainforest. Zola Jesus Taiga perfume is filled with precious wood, smoky notes and touches of lush greenery—a veritable taiga in a bottle. I can't think of a designer more suited to create a fragrance like this than Blackbird.
Blackbird incense burning at Elements Showcase, August 2013
(It's absolutely perfect, too, that Blackbird, known also for their amazingly creative incense compositions, have released Zola Jesus Taiga as incense pyres in addition to the perfume.)
Chock full of amazingly good stuff, Zola Jesus Taiga has official notes of Guaiacwood, Teak, Oud, Copaiba Balsam, Indian Frankincense, Cedar, Black Pepper, Nutmeg, Choya Loban, Nagarmotha, Omani Frankincense, Sandalwood, Green Peppercorn, Smoke, Oak, Cistus, Ambrette, Myrrh, Davana, Helichrysum, Geranium, Vetiver, Caraway and Opopanax. The fragrance opens with gentle flashes of plush green from the bergamot, geranium and helichyrsum, but I was hooked by its spicy sweet smoke over fresh-cut woods which appears shortly after application. The fragrance lasts a good 10+ hours, with powerful sillage for the first two hours that gradually settles to a warm, sweet and resinous finish.
There are many notes here that could easily pull this fragrance towards the traditional oriental fragrances of the Middle East, but there's a density here that speaks more of temperate climates than shifting desert sands. Zola Jesus Taiga is the scent of a hermit's cabin hidden deep in the woods, where the sole inhabitant spends days and nights contemplating the mysteries of existence before an altar of burning incense. Intact trees of the forest surround the split wood cabin, which in turn surrounds the firelight and gentle glow of incense embers as the fragrance spirals on an inward journey to the depths of the soul. What will we discover about ourselves along the way? Darkness or light? Bitterness or sweetness? Such a journey is not to be undertaken lightly and it could very well be dangerous ...
Pop singer Ariana Grande launches her first fragrance in September 2015 called Ari by Ariana Grande. The fragrance is announced as luscious and sexy, opening with sparkling fruity notes connected to its ultra-feminine floral heart and the base of musk, woods and marshmallow accord.
It is available in a cute pink bottle with white pom-pom as 50 ml Eau de Parfum.
Armani Code Satin comes out in August 2015 as a new, playful version of the Armani Code Pour Femme fragrance from 2006. The new flanker allegedly reflects a seductive woman of extraordinary personality, provocative charm and energy.
The scent is a floral oriental gourmand. It opens with sparkling notes of ginger and pear sorbet. Neroli essence illuminates the heart of the entire composition, combined with about orange blossom absolute and Arabian jasmine. The base is intense and sweet: it features patchouli, cocoa, praline and vanilla.
Paco Rabanne launches a new feminine fragrance in August 2015 under the mythical name of Olympéa. Olympéa represents the equivalent of the masculine editionInvictus from 2013, inspired by the athletic spirit, competition and victory.
The concept is based on the idea of a modern Greek goddess and evokes strength, dynamism and conquests. The perfume is developed by Loc Dong and Anne Flipo.
Its both salty and floral composition is characterized as fresh oriental, opening with sparkling green mandarin, aquatic notes of water jasmine and fiery ginger lily, with salted vanilla in the heart. The base notes are sandalwood, cashmere and ambergris.
Top notes: green mandarin, ginger lily, water jasmine Heart: salted vanilla Base: ambergris, cashmere, sandalwood
The face of the perfume is Brazilian model Luma Grothe. The bottle is shaped like a laurel crown, designed by Marc Ange. The fragrance is available as 30, 50 and 80 mlEau de Parfum.
Besides the Eau de Parfum edition, Olympéa Extrait de Parfum is also launched. It includes exclusive, refined ingredients in a glass bottle designed by Haute-Normandie. To enrich the original formula, Loc Dong combined Arabian Sambac jasmine absolute and Bourbon vanilla extract for a cleaner, warmer and more balmy touch of vanilla.
Nicki Minaj presents her new fragrance The Pinkprint in September 2015. The fragrance is named after her latest album and tour. It comes in the distinctive Nicki Minaj doll-shaped bottle, which is dressed differently every time, wearing a different wig.
The Pinkprint opens with a fresh mixture that includes bergamot, pink grapefruit and passion fruit. The heart is composed of nectarine, frangipani, orange blossom, heliotrope and roses. Coconut, driftwood accord, sandalwood, patchouli and skin musk end the composition.
Top notes of bergamot, pink grapefruit, passion fruit Heart: nectarine, frangipani, orange blossom, heliotrope, rose Base: coconut, druftwood, sandalwood, patchouli, musk
The fragrance is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.
Rancé 1795 is a perfume house that, in my opinion, doesn't get all the attention it deserves. Not only do they have the most wonderful people in their staff (a pleasure to be with them when I go to the perfume expos) but they also have a collection of precious- smelling gems. The brand has something for everyone even though some of the scents I admit to be less than memorable. But here and there they have launched some real masterpieces like Tubéreuse Amour, L'Aigle de la Victoire, Laetitia andPrès de Toi, the subject of this review.
Près de Toi is a fragrance that I discovered last time in Milan's Esxence event. It was launched in 2011 and it's part of the collection Les Etoiles: flacons adorned with crystal flowers that you can detach and wear as jewels. Près de Toi plays on a contemporary woody-oud-floral-chypre scheme. It is a fragrance that, despite its easy and sensual character, asks for some attention in order to be fully understood. It always plays the double personality between the overtly commercial floral-patchouli-vanilla and the greatness of natural raw materials with a very intelligent use of oud. Now, the oud in Près de Toi is not used for the sake of pleasing the Arabian crowd. Oud is actually the note that transforms this rather common composition into something with a twist. So, sweet florals and patchouli + high quality ingredients + that touch of oud = the formula for this elegant scent.
The affirmation of an oriental theme comes into life in Près de Toi in a very subtle and delicate way. This balance is done by the dosage of fresh notes like orange blossom, bergamot and tangerine which makes a contrast with the sweet base of patchouli, vanilla, tolu and the zing of a pinch of oud. You can smell all the composition at once, with the florals intertwined, jasmine and rose being the protagonists of the heart with the added touch of magnolia. The effect is not challenging or very original, but it smells very rich, while being very polite and managing to introduce a sexy and indulging quality.
This perfume may seem to fade quickly or it may appear to be too shy, but the fact is that I get a lot of compliments everytime I wear it, so it must be working its magic in a subliminal fashion. In fact, one day I was at the art library researching an article and when I got home I had an email from the lady working at the desk asking what was the fragrance I was wearing. It's a very easy scent to enjoy if you like the florientals. It could be very feminine but then again there is that oud element that makes it a bit rough and also suitable for men. You can't smell the oud but you know it is there working its magic with the creamy sweetness of tolu balsam. Sweet, enveloping, decadent, even mouthwatering but deep and lingering. I really love Prés de Toi.
Now, I would like to add some news regarding two other fragrances that I wrote about previousluy: L'Aigle de La Victoire and Tubéreuse Amour. While talking to the kind and warm Manuela, from the Rancé staff at Esxence, she told me that the brand had decided to reformulate them. Apparently they were too edgy for the Rancé clientele. Yes, they were powerhouses, pretty much like scent bombs. L'Aigle de La Victoire in a very animalic, beastly and intense masculinity. Tubéreuse Amour in a sweet and camphored tuberose amped up to an almost impossible intensity, capable to please the lovers of all things extreme. Oh well, it seems that they both lost their edge. One for better, the other for worse.
L'Aigle de La Victoire I agree it was a bit too hard. Even I myself, a lover of dense clouds of perfume, can't seem to find good occasions to wear it. But when I do, I do it with great pleasure. Well, that was before. The version you can find now in the shops is different. Even though the bottle and the box is the same, the juice got diluted. You can see a change in the color of the liquid, but it is virtually impossible to know if you got an old or new formula. The result of this changing if not very different, but it turned the perfume into an easier thing to wear. A bit less personality, maybe, but a better balance. There is a greater freshness in the top notes and a cooler, more elegant vibe to it. What was before an over the top beast got tamer. All the ingredients are there, but it seems less concentrated and more approachable. And that's not bad, really.
Regarding Tubéreuse Amour, all I have to say is that it is now a regular tuberose. A good one, but the originality is gone. While L'Aigle de La Victoire came from the wilderness to civilization, Tubéreuse Amour just went to sleep. Not very interesting anymore, I have to say.
Another great fragrance I was introduced to recently was Laetitia, of which I shall tell you more in a future review.
Gianfranco Ferre launches a new fragrance in the second half of 2015. Camicia 113 follows his design of a white shirt called Calice, created in 1982. The creation was inspired by sword fighting and duels, as well as the Cala lily's form. The fragrance carries the slogan "La Camicia Bianca Secondo Me"("My idea of a white shirt ").
Camicia 113 is a fragrant homage to extravagant design, a fusion of elegance and courage, and mysterious and harmonious architecture. An expression of timeless style and high fashion, Camicia 113 is announced as a sophisticated scent that caresses your skin. It belongs to the family of fresh floral orientals. It contains accords of bergamot, magnolia, iris, peony, jasmine, violet, patchouli, musk and Siam benzoin.
The square bottle of simple design is decorated with a stopper which reminds us of the glorious creation of the designer. The fragrance is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.
"I use the word section to describe a breakaway, a separation. This divided version of me awakens a forgotten yet timeless image from the very first moments of my life. To the right of me, touching the edge of my shadow, in another light, it illuminates a crown, one that could belong to my other."—Serge Lutens
Maestro Lutens writes the materials on the website so beautifully and intricately that it almost goes beyond sense. For example, "Section d'Or is more than a collection, the Serge Lutens mark of exception. Section d'Or is infinite, Serge Lutens take infinity to a new level." Or "Beyond anything I myself am yet to discover. Creation knows no bounds and with Section d'or I take the concept even further, pushing it to the limit, beyond the reasonable." Not all of us could expand the infinity. Or "A division in my own life. From now on, time is all that matters. That is how it is. Section d'or is part of my expression, it divides, it unites, extends beyond something which was holding me back. An obstacle I cannot as yet clearly define."
Whether it is thought-provoking philosophy for the few who are able to evaluate the associated biographical tragedy (his mother left Serge and he grew up an orphan) and the unusual dramatic perfumes born out of it, or a show for the public, or just the subconscious glossolalia of a perfume Pythia for the sake of all the enthusiastic fans, let's try to figure it out together (welcome to the comments!).
It seems to me that the Maestro has been somewhat stagnated in his work, missing the impulse after the strange colognes and he had to go back to his own roots and re-invent his own style. It would be strange to repeat himself, and for the elimination of self-competition from innovative perfumes with his own old hits, the Serge Lutens house, with the support of Shiseido has entered a new price level. For example, the collection's firestarter, fiery fragrance L'Incendiaire was presented with the hot price of 450 euros (or $600) with the words, "The fire is not within the perfume but within me. I want to ignite the smoldering embers of the perfume world, to put the fire back in perfumes!" Quite an inspiring speech, and a rather obscene price, after the announcement of which we were left to guess what Serge Lutens was going to say. Is there enough fire for the money? Did Maestro decide to compete with Roja Dove for the bigger brand image? What is the maximum price for a perfume their names are able to sell? Both Maestros will soon begin to sell their fragrant liquids for the same weight of gold, literally! And they will be right!
Fortunately or not, our brains have learned to feel more pleasure from higher prices, and the pleasure level does not depend on our conscious rational thoughts. Just putting an exorbitant price on a good perfume will make it even more high-quality, prestigious and luxurious in the eyes of the buyers. There is some scientific proof: theAntonio Rangel experiments at the California Institute of Technology in 2013-2014 on the taste of wine depending on price and the David Just experiments at Cornell University for the pleasure of pizza depending on price. It works just as well with jewelry, handbags, clothing, chef restaurants and all-all-all. Expensive cannot be trash. Money cannot be wrong.
L'Haleine des Dieux, or The Breath of the Gods, in its description mentions modest white gypsophila, which sets off the splendor of roses in bouquets. This mild and delicate perfume with such a magnificent name shows obvious oriental character. Moderately sweet, resinous and ambery, slightly fruity and delicate, with tree needles and the leather, it gives a sense of cool gloves, that cover the arm to the elbow in the soft skin as if the leather been poured upon the arm... Here! Seems like that’s the feeling that Maestro wanted to transmit in the perfume! Gloves from venerable brand like Hermès, gloves of exceptional quality, made in a comfortable cut and some inconspicuous gloomy military color, not calling attention to themselves. Gloves for the owner's self-awareness, not for show. A lot of money, disguised as an everyday thing.
Notes: Amber, Leather, Fir balsam absolute, Cashmeran, Sage, Musk, Vanilla and Cistus.
Cannibale promises bite marks on the skin and vibrant acidity resembling the French floral vinegars of the 18th century. But first, foremost and for a long time, it is burning cistus with bright glowing rose, with resins, incense and woods. Greet the new Amber, smoldering, bright, not-Ambre-Sultan, but much more real and perceptible than the Divine Breath! It becomes sour, just as promised, at the drydown. Sour, woody, ambery, interesting. First, I remembered the Ambre Sultan, which has gone mad, and the thick gooey cistus of Norma Kamali Incense, but in the last stage of the cannibal I got used to it, and even feel empathy with him, a sort of Stockholm Syndrome ...
Notes: Burning resins, Flowers in fire, Rose, Frankincense, Cistus, Woods and Smoky notes.
Sidi Bel-Abbès is a city in Algeria. It is famous for its military history: the French Foreign Legion had its training camp here, which has now been changed for Algerian national gendarmerie trainings. The eternal legend of Beauty and the Beast's love story created in a new colonial style: Parisian aristocratesse and brutal Legionnaire—if you want—told through perfume contradictions. It alternates typical masculine and feminine notes: sweet tobacco flower and bitter leather, gourmand vanilla and sweat-smelling rough cumin, bright tropical flowers and spicy fougère cologne for men. This contradiction is unusual and frightening at first, but later on it fascinates and captivates. Sidi Bel-Abbes starts much more active and bold in comparison to Fumerie Turque, its apparent ancestor. This relationship will become more apparent after a few hours.
Notes: White Tobacco, Beeswax, Russian leather, Cumin, Coumarin, Vanilla.
The remaining pair of perfumes—Cracheuse de Flammes and Renard Constrictor—were out of my reach. Serge Lutens perfumes Cracheuse de Flammes, Renard Constrictor, Cannibale, Sidi Bel-Abbès and L'Haleine des Dieux are available at Le Palais Royal Serge Lutens in Paris, in 50 ml Extrait de Parfum, as well as at Barneys in the U.S
Kenneth Cole will refresh men this summer with the new fragranceBLUE which promises an energizing and aromatic composition. Fragrance Blue was designed for a modern and sporty man with style, who chooses citruses, marine notes and a subtle finish.
The composition of KENNETH COLE BLUE opens with sparkling and refreshing citrus chords, leading to a heart with aromatic notes which appear dynamically, as waves. The base is masculine, sophisticated and decorated with warm shades of cedar and amber. "I was inspired by Mediterranean summer for this fragrance. The new season changed the entire nature of water, air and light and provided characteristic electric charge. I wanted to convey the feeling you have when you dive during hot summer days on the Mediterranean," according to perfumer Mathieu Nardin.
Fragrance Kenneth Cole Blue is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette starting from August 2015.
ACQUA DI PARMA presents a special edition of fragrance for men COLONIA ESSENZA in a black bottle inspired by a tuxedo and bow tie, with an elegant motif hand-made by Italian master glass-makers. The new collectors’ flacon will be worth the attention of fans and connoisseurs of this fragrance. The luxurious, limited flacon is refillable.
The composition remains unchanged and provides the same notes as Colonia Essenza from 2010 and is based on a blend of citruses, aromatic herbs and delicate flowers. The most prominent notes are bergamot, rosemary, lily of the valley and amber.
bergamot, grapefruit, orange, mandarin, petitgrain rosemary, sage, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, neroli vetiver, musk, patchouli, amber, kloves, moss
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA SPECIAL EDITION 2015 is available as 180 ml Eau de Cologne priced at 140 pounds. Besides the classic flacon and the special limited edition, this fragrance can also be purchased as travel bottle which arrives in a black leather case as 30 ml Eau de Cologne at the price of 88 pounds.
The house of Jil Sander presents a new fragrance called Strictly Jil Sander in October 2015, as the masculine equivalent of Simply Jil Sander perfume from 2014. It was announced as a stylish scent of male elegance, refined like tailor-made suits of clear lines and fine material.
The composition is created by perfumers Sonia Constant and Olivier Pescheux. Top notes are spicy and include white pepper and bay leaf. Spicy-oriental character continues in its heart, with accords of cardamom and nutmeg. Vetiver, sandalwood and tonka end the composition.
Top notes: white pepper, bay leaves Heart: cardamom, nutmeg Base: vetiver, cedar, tonka
The bottle design is simple and elegant, colored in gray tones. The fragrance is available as 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.
Blackbird incense burning at Elements Showcase, August 2013
Its both salty and floral composition is characterized as fresh oriental, opening with sparkling green mandarin, aquatic notes of water jasmine and fiery ginger lily, with salted vanilla in the heart. The base notes are sandalwood, cashmere and ambergris.
